I had been away from Delhi for the
better part of the month and after the heat and humidity of Singapore, Delhi's
cold was very welcoming. The weather is just perfect for being outdoors- it’s
nice and sunny-great time for going around and exploring the city.
The temperature has dipped but not our proclivity for food. The cold is making
us more ravenous and the day starts with stuffed paranthas (flatbread)
with loads of butter, wheat flour has given way to corn and pearl millet, for
something sweet its gur (jaggery) based goodies like gajak, rewari and
for snacking there are always moongphali (peanuts) and dry
fruits. But of course in this gluttony my dieting plans go for a toss. I
studiously avoid going anywhere near the weighing scale and try to assuage my
guilt by promising to do additional rounds of the park.
On a nice sunny day I made a trip to Khari Baoli (Asia's biggest spice market) in Chandni Chowk for stocking up on the mewa (dry fruits).
Now Chandni Chowk is definitely not a place for the faint hearted ... you do need to steel yourself for a day out here - maneuvering your way through the sea of humanity.The first sense that hits you is omg!! So many people! It’s virtually like a mela (fair) with waves and waves of people all around you and the hawkers standing at every nook and corner selling their wares. Walking though its main street is an exercise in alacrity and deftness ... you should be able to side step people and walk through the huge rush without banging into the hordes thronging this age old bazaar.
It’s a different world out here and you realize that this is the real India from which we urban elite tend to isolate ourselves by keeping our interactions to the minimum ... but all the same it is this India which is in our psyche and is still very much a part of us. Going to Chandni Chowk makes us realize at once why despite of so much of globalization ... so much of Gucci, Ferragamos and Versace and Porsche showrooms ... most, rather majority of India is still zillions of eons away from western style development and modernity.
Coming back to the subject! Chandni Chowk is a true foodie haven; the minute
you step in there is virtually some scrumptious stuff at each corner and lane.
The Natraj dahibhalla (lentil based snack) and tikki (potato
patty) guy at the corner is hugely popular, opposite him is the famous Jalebiwala whose desi ghee (clarified
butter) soaked offerings are legendary.
But none of the chaats and kachoris (snacks)
tempted me, as this time around, I was seeking out a much commended shudh
desi (pure Indian) vegetarian bhojanalaya (restaurant).
What spurred me was the high praise this lunchroom received from Rahul Verma and Pamela Timms. Both acclaimed food writers and connoisseurs of Old Delhi food.
My lunch destination was Adarsh
Bhojanalaya at Haveli Haider Quli. It is a very honest-to-goodness joint.
The place was fairly crowded, always a promising sign. There were a couple of
young lads serving everyone and within no time they served us a piping hot meal
in thalis, a true Marwari hallmark. On the menu
was raita, daal, kidney beans and seasonal vegetable with some
salad, chutney and papad on the side
and gulab jamun (Indian sweet). The food is a lot like your
everyday home cooked fare sans onion and garlic. They serve this with different
varieties of freshly made breads- ghee laden plain roti, missi
roti, stuffed paranthas (paneer/aloo) and rice. For a
couple of dollars it’s a fabulously sumptuous meal - simple, wholesome food
served with lots of heart and satkaar (hospitality).
Of course I pigged out so much so that I couldn't eat the whole day ... so carry along some digestives if you happen to come here! I am sure you too will fall for this all forgotten simple but one helluva tasty vegetarian fare.
Three months ago: South Indian fare in and around Lutyen's Delhi
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