Besan Kadhi - the perfect winter cheer

"Winter is the time for comfort,
for good food and warmth,
for the touch of a friendly hand,
and for a talk beside the fire:
It is the time for home."
- Edith Sitwell

It's been a cold day here in Delhi and what I was yearning for was some comfort food. I mentally ticked off the list of things I could have, and finally settled on kadhi an all time favorite and a food which was sure to make me happy.

Kadhi chawal has always been a yummy combination and with fried potatoes it tastes absolutely swell.

creamy buttermilk

Buttermilk (chach) is mostly used for making kadhi because the smoothness and creaminess comes from that. Curd will also do but it tastes best with freshly churned buttermilk made from full cream milk.

kadhi pakori

Every house has its own unique way of making this dish. My friend makes Punjabi style kadhi and likes pyaaz ki pakodi in her kadhi. Its consistency can also vary; Gujarati kadhi is thin and also sweetish. Sindhi kadhi has loads of vegetables in it and tamarind pulp is added for  sourness. But whatever way you like it sweet or sour, it always tastes good, is very simple to make and can be had any time of the year.

 Do take the time out to make this dish, I am sure you will enjoy this recipe as much as I do.

Kadhi

Serves 2

For the kadhi

besan kadhi

500 ml (1/2 liter) buttermilk
4 tablespoon besan (chick pea flour/ gram flour)

1/4 teaspoon jeera (cumin seeds)

1/4 teaspoon methi (fenugreek seeds)

1/4 teaspoon hing (asafoetida powder)

1/4 teaspoon haldi (turmeric powder)

a few sprigs of fresh kadi patta (curry leaves)

1 tablespoon ghee (clarified butter)

500 ml (1/2 liter) water

Salt to taste

For the Pakoris

4 tablespoon besan (chickpea flour / gram flour)

70-75 ml water (approx)

Salt to taste

1 cup oil for frying

For the tempering

4 tablespoon desi ghee (clarified butter)

1/2 teaspoon red chilli powder

To make the pakoris

Take besan (chickpea flour) in a bowl, add salt and then slowly add the water till you get a smooth batter of dropping consistency. Lightly beat the mixture (best to do it with hand) for 5 minutes till it is light and fluffy.

Heat the oil in a kadhai (wok). Once the oil is heated up lower the flame to medium and then drop spoonfuls of the besan batter into it. Deep fry the pakodis till they are golden brown and then remove from oil and keep aside.

For the kadhi

Add besan (chickpea flour), haldi (turmeric powder) and the water to the buttermilk. Mix it all well and then strain the mixture to remove any lumps.

Take another kadhai (wok) and add desi ghee (clarified butter), then add the cumin seeds, fenugreek seeds and asafoetida. Stir them for a couple of minutes till they get roasted then add the curry leaves. Now pour in the strained buttermilk- besan (gramflour) mixture, add the salt and stir it well.

Let this mixture cook on high heat till it comes to a boil. Do keep stirring the mixture from time to time or it may split. Once it comes to a boil lower the flame and add the pakoris to it. Mix everything well and then partially cover with a lid. Let it cook on a low flame, stirring it in between. Cook on a simmer till the mixture becomes thickish, will take around 30-45 minutes, and then turn off the burner.

For the tempering

Heat up the desi ghee (clarified butter) and then add the red chilli powder to it. Stir it and then remove from heat so the chilli powder doesn't get burnt.

 Garnish the hot kadhi with this tempering and serve with roti (whole wheat flat bread) and boiled rice.

Note: 

1.   In case you like the kadhi to be slightly sour the buttermilk should be kept out of the refrigerator till it takes on the sourness that suits you.

2.   For melt in the mouth pakoris the trick is to lightly beat the chickpea batter. The beating makes the batter light and results in soft pakoris.

3.  The consistency of the batter should be such that when you drop spoonfuls of batter in the hot oil it holds its shape.

Two months ago: Traditional festive food ... UP style

Five months ago: Musings about Desi khana

Shudh Desi affair in Chandni Chowk

I had been away from Delhi for the better part of the month and after the heat and humidity of Singapore, Delhi's cold was very welcoming. The weather is just perfect for being outdoors- it’s nice and sunny-great time for going around and exploring the city. 

The temperature has dipped but not our proclivity for food. The cold is making us more ravenous and the day starts with stuffed paranthas (flatbread) with loads of butter, wheat flour has given way to corn and pearl millet, for something sweet its gur (jaggery) based goodies like gajak, rewari and for snacking there are always moongphali (peanuts) and dry fruits. But of course in this gluttony my dieting plans go for a toss. I studiously avoid going anywhere near the weighing scale and try to assuage my guilt by promising to do additional rounds of the park.

On a nice sunny day I made a trip to Khari Baoli (Asia's biggest spice market) in Chandni Chowk for stocking up on the mewa (dry fruits).

Now Chandni Chowk is definitely not a place for the faint hearted ... you do need to steel yourself for a day out here - maneuvering your way through the sea of humanity.The first sense that hits you is omg!! So many people! It’s virtually like a mela (fair) with waves and waves of people all around you and the hawkers standing at every nook and corner selling their wares. Walking though its main street is an exercise in alacrity and deftness ... you should be able to side step people and walk through the huge rush without banging into the hordes thronging this age old bazaar.

 It’s a different world out here and you realize that this is the real India from which we urban elite tend to isolate ourselves by keeping our interactions to the minimum ... but all the same it is this India which is in our psyche and is still very much a part of us. Going to Chandni Chowk makes us realize at once why despite of so much of globalization ... so much of Gucci, Ferragamos and Versace and Porsche showrooms ... most, rather majority of India is still zillions of eons away from western style development and modernity. 

Coming back to the subject! Chandni Chowk is a true foodie haven; the minute you step in there is virtually some scrumptious stuff at each corner and lane. The Natraj dahibhalla (lentil based snack) and tikki (potato patty) guy at the corner is hugely popular, opposite him is the famous Jalebiwala whose desi ghee (clarified butter) soaked offerings are legendary.

But none of the chaats and kachoris (snacks) tempted me, as this time around, I was seeking out a much commended shudh desi (pure Indian) vegetarian bhojanalaya (restaurant).

What spurred me was the high praise this lunchroom received from  Rahul Verma and Pamela Timms. Both acclaimed food writers and connoisseurs of Old Delhi food.

My lunch destination was Adarsh Bhojanalaya at Haveli Haider Quli. It is a very honest-to-goodness joint.

The place was fairly crowded, always a promising sign. There were a couple of young lads serving everyone and within no time they served us a piping hot meal in thalis, a true Marwari hallmark. On the menu was raita, daal, kidney beans and seasonal vegetable with some salad, chutney and papad on the side and gulab jamun (Indian sweet). The food is a lot like your everyday home cooked fare sans onion and garlic. They serve this with different varieties of freshly made breads- ghee laden plain roti, missi roti, stuffed paranthas (paneer/aloo) and rice. For a couple of dollars it’s a fabulously sumptuous meal - simple, wholesome food served with lots of heart and satkaar (hospitality).

Of course I pigged out so much so that I couldn't eat the whole day ... so carry along some digestives if you happen to come here! I am sure you too will fall for this all forgotten simple but one helluva tasty vegetarian fare.

Three months ago: South Indian fare in and around Lutyen's Delhi

Dark indulgence - Whole Wheat Chocolate Cupcakes

I enjoy baking, there is something deeply satisfying about home baked cakes and their aroma wafting from the kitchen which fills up the house. Winter has set in, in Delhi and all our woollies and blankets are out ...  on a cold wintry evening nothing could be more welcoming than enjoying a cup of  fine Darjeeling tea with  a slice of cake fresh and warm from the oven.

Chocolate cake is a big favorite with everyone but then, let's be honest ... there is some guilt attached to gorging on such indulgence. To ostensibly alleviate that guilt, I veered towards making whole wheat chocolate cupcakes. The wheat flour gives a darker and denser texture and a nice nutty flavor.

Whole wheat flour is made of ground whole grain wheat kernels. It is by far a healthier option in baking and by no means less tasty as the switch from refined to wheat flour does not compromise the flavor. Initially, if one wishes one could use a 50/50 blend of both whole wheat and refined flour in the cake batter and then gradually switch over to total whole wheat. Baking times may vary when using whole grain flour so do the toothpick test to check when the cake is done.

I am all for simple tea cakes, but I couldn't resist glamming up these cupcakes. Though it marginally adds to the calorie count, the icing sure adds a lot of oomph to the simple chocolate cupcake. The cupcakes have a subtle chocolate flavor and a moist texture that is topped with a rich and creamy chocolate butter icing.

Whole Wheat Chocolate Cupcakes

Makes 10- 12 cup cakes

 chocolate cupcakes

3/4 cup whole wheat flour
1/4 cup cocoa powder

3/4 cup sugar

1/4 cup oil

11/2 teaspoon baking powder

2 eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla essence

3/4 cup warm water

Preheat oven to 180 degrees C. Grease a 12 cup muffin pan or line with paper baking cups.

Stir in the cocoa powder in the hot water (this brings out its full flavor) and mix well till smooth. Let it cool down to room temperature.

In a medium bowl, sift the whole wheat flour and the baking powder together. In a separate bowl mix in the sugar, oil, eggs and the vanilla essence.

Add the wet ingredients to the dry ones and fold in. Lastly, add the cooled cocoa water a little at a time (the batter should be of dropping consistency and not runny) till the cake batter gets well mixed .

Spoon the batter into the prepared cups dividing evenly till they are about 3/4ths filled. Level the batter with the back of a spoon and bake for 20-25 minutes or till a skewer inserted inside comes out clean.

Let the cupcakes rest in the tin for 5 minutes and then place them on a wire rack to cool

Butter Cream Frosting

4 tablespoon (1/2 stick) unsalted butter

1/4 cup cocoa powder

2 cup confectioners’ sugar / icing sugar

4 tablespoons milk

1 teaspoon vanilla essence

1. Place the butter in a bowl and  beat well till it gets smooth and creamy

2. Add in the cocoa and sugar and beat them in well till fluffy

3. Mix in the milk, a little at a time, stirring it well after each addition and then add the vanilla extract and beat till frosting is smooth and glossy.

4. Spread the icing on each cooled cupcake with a small spatula and let it rest for 1/2 an hour till it sets properly.

Note: Powdered sugar can also be used for icing but sift it well with a fine sieve.

Two months ago: Celebrating summer with a pear spice cake

Three months ago: Whole wheat mango cake-sans guilt

Four months ago: Pear and Cinnamon Upside Down Cake

Tea and Coffee Country - Coonoor

Holidays leave some lovely memories-replete with the sights and sounds of places one visited, of the impulsive things one did, of the local food one tried - soaking in the sense and feel of the place. But the ones which you remember most are the places where there was ease and you had a comfortable stay. Recently when I travelled down South to the tea country- Coonoor, I was looking for something that had an old world charm and was reminiscent of the colonial past. Wallwood Garden, a 19th century heritage hotel of Neemrana Group fitted the bill beautifully. It was a tea planter's bungalow which is now run as a boutique hotel (or a Non-Hotel as the group likes to call it) and is an ideal choice for experiencing the Nilgiris.

The property is located in the picturesque and peaceful environs of Upper Coonoor, a mere 5 minutes from the town's most visited spot, the Sim's Park. The bungalow is a relic of the British days and is truly vintage material with a fireplace too- the perfect thing on a cold wintry day.

The cottage is sweetly maintained and makes for a relaxed stay. The rooms are aesthetically done up in their trademark style of  Rajasthani furnishings complete with a four poster bed and Victorian two seaters, very charming and comfortable, just the place to snuggle up with a book and relax. The lawns are well kept (and have won some prizes too), the perfect place to enjoy your morning cuppa and savor some fresh mountain air. The dining room was a delight with its French windows which offered a lovely view of the greens outside. The wooden flooring in the lounge adds to the warmth of the place. It is away from the town's hustle and bustle and though located on the Kotagiri road, it has been able to maintain its serenity. Their food is very basic and nothing much to write about but since there were plenty of good eating options nearby it was no sweat.

Like any hill station, confectionary shops are plentiful here and we would invariably stroll down to Bedford market which was close by to try out the huge variety of cakes and cookies- Swiss rolls, chocolate cake, ginger biscuits and great tasting cookies. Baker's Junction, in this area, was another interesting shop, stacked with all possible eats- a real treasure trove for foodies. Craving a Chinese meal, there is the Dragon Chinese Restaurant near the market square which dishes out quite an edible fare for a small town. There is also the ubiquitous CCD (Cafe Coffee Day) - in the Bedford area which was surprisingly not drawing in crowds. I guess people here still prefer their good old filter coffee over any fancy stuff. I was missing my North Indian food by now so Quality Restaurant was our savior; they do a good lunch buffet which is very sumptuous. For South Indian food there are options aplenty (there is Shri Lakshmi in Lower Coonoor) and they all do a good job.

What stood out about Coonoor vis-a-vis other places up North was that it is relatively cleaner, people have a lot more civic sense and don't litter the streets. In the Nilgiris there is a ban on the use of plastics which is adhered to very religiously. Our eats would be very nicely wrapped in brown paper packets and it was good to see even the small shop keepers following the practice unlike up here in the North where such restrictions are openly flouted. The aam aadmi (common man) is far more conscientious about his work and seldom would you find people whiling away their time. Walking around, as a North Indian you do get curious but affable looks, this pleasantness is something which is clearly absent in Delhi city. 

 As a Delhiite I might have a lot of cribs about my city,  but my trip to the South has been quite an eye opener too, to the extent that it made me realize, that all told Delhi is still by far the best, and one of the most livable places in the country.

Traditional festive food ... UP style

"What is patriotism but the love of the food one ate as a child?"

- Lin Yutang

The festival of lights- Diwali, is an occasion that one looks forward to each year. This festival for me has a lot of nostalgia attached to it - of times spent with my parents and sisters. On Diwali day my parents would religiously visit the temple in the morning, and if they could, would try to get us to accompany them. For Jains, Diwali is a special day, as on this day, Lord Mahavir, the last of the Jain Tirthankara, attained  moksha (salvation). Jain ceremonies are more towards simplicity and there is less of pomp and over the top celebrations.

Festive occasions in India, apart from their religious significance have one major theme - food. My father was from western UP-  a prosperous area synonymous with good food and he sure was fastidious about his food.Though my mother was a total novice in cooking at the time of her marriage but she gradually honed her cooking skills once she realised that my father enjoyed good food.

On  Diwali, my mom used to make pithi ki kachori (a fried bread  made from wheat flour which has spicy lentil paste stuffed in the dough). Kachori was something that we all enjoyed and it was not just made on festive occassions-we only needed an excuse to have it.(I guess it's got to do with my genes - apparently my grandfather used to have kachoris for both his meals). There were lots of different vegetables made with the kachoris and along with that were some side accompaniments like methi ki launji and kaddu ki sabzi (sweet and sour pumpkin curry).This vegetable was one of my mom's favorite and she could have her entire meal with just this.This vegetable is also known as petha / kashiphal / sitaphal (pumpkin).

Though I don't do such elaborate cooking as my mom, but on Diwali day kachori is a must and so is the khatti meethi 'kaddu ki sabzi'. The pumpkin curry has some sugar added to it for sweetness but the sugar is optional and can be omitted. It is a nice tangy and spicy vegetable, but feel free to experiment as the masalas(spices) should always be to your personal taste. Most of my everyday cooking  is andaaz se (intuitively)- nothing is measured out because mostly things will turn out fine as long as you give it your undivided attention.

Sweet and Sour Pumpkin/ Kaddu ki sabji

SERVES 4

150 gm pumpkin (kaddu)

4-5 fresh green chillies

4 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 teaspoon fenugreek seed (methi dana)

1 teaspoon cumin seed (jeera)

large pinch of asafoetida (hing)

1 tablespoon sliced ginger

1 tablespoon sugar (or to taste)

1 tablespoon coriander powder (dhania )

1 teaspoon garam masala

1 teaspoon red chilli powder (lal mirch)

1/2 teaspoon turmeric powder (haldi)

1 tablespoon tamarind pulp diluted in water(4 tablespoon)

chopped coriander

Salt to taste

Cut the pumpkin into 4 cm cubes. Slice the pumpkin peel into slivers (optional). Slit the green chillies into two.

Heat oil, then add the fenugreek seeds, cumin seeds and asafoetida. When the seeds splutter, add the slivered ginger and fry for about one minute. Stir in the pumpkin cubes, peels and the green chillies and continue stir frying for 5 minutes until the pumpkin looks glossy.

Stir in the sugar, salt, coriander powder, garam masala, chiili powder and turmeric powder and mix well. Cover the pan, lower the heat and cook it on a simmer, stirring the vegetable a couple of times in between  for 20-30 minutes until the kaddu is tender.Take care not to mash the vegetable while stirring.

Stir in tamarind juice, mix well and cook for 2-3 minutes longer. Serve garnished with chopped green coriander. 

I love this kaddu ki sabzi and can simply to feast on it  with poori, kachori or even just roti. (traditional Indian breads) ... try and my guess is you too would love it 

Home in London ... are you game ?

With the economic meltdown in Europe and the bank failures in the US, there was a huge decline in property values from Barcelona to New York. Good property bargains were for the asking, it was a buyer’s market. London too faced a similar credit crunch and in such a scenario it was largely thought that real estate prices here too would take quite a dressing down. The soothsayers had been predicting that the London prices which showed no signs of falling were just a bubble holding out ready to burst anytime and were not justified in any way, but London bucked the trend. There was no substantial decline to speak off and whatever impact the economic situation had was limited to the prices remaining stagnant for some time. Virtually all the realty majors and the property agents underestimated the strength of London property market which despite of credit crunch and a weakening economy, managed to stay afloat. A major contributer to this buoyancy was the overseas interest in its real estate which  remained unabated. Perhaps they took a leaf from Warren Buffet's philosophy to "be greedy only when others are fearful" and saw the trying times as a buying opportunity. The real estate naysayers were left quite red faced when the prices jumped up a further 10-15% in the recent past, contrary to their opinion.

What actually worked in London’s favor is the fact that the appreciation seen in the prices is more due to it becoming a top notch international destination in a progressively globalized world. In an increasingly affluent world it is not just a business destination but also a favored spot for people looking at buying second homes. The realty price in London is no longer merely a function of the economic growth in UK but has more to do with the fact that London has a new found universal appeal. 

Unarguably, London is a beautiful city - it's impossible to escape its elegance and charm. One can totally relate to Samuel Johnson's sentiments when he famously said "when a man is tired of London, he is tired of life".Though New York might be buzzing and vibrant but it’s not exactly, as alluring. London is enchanting all around … from Hyde Park to St James Park and if you want the countryside experience in the city then look no further than Hampstead Heath, just 6 kms from Trafalgar Square, one of the most loved green spaces in London.

The property market in Central London or to be more precise in Zone 1 is fuelled a lot by overseas buyers … the Russians, rich Middle East sheikhs and the emerging nouveau riche in India, China and Far East who continue to invest in this city. It is the international city of choice for its acceptance of multifarious cultures, great infrastructure, well linked to the other Euro zone nations and above all it has emerged as a safe place to invest in times when finding safe assets is a challenge. Most importantly, it is an English speaking country and very few nations give this kind of comfort and instant connect, other than USA. London perhaps beats New York in the sense that it is more centrally located from a global standpoint and is just like New York, a 'melting pot'.

Coming back to London, there are the all too well known boroughs of Chelsea, Knightsbridge, Kensington, Mayfair which are much sought after by anyone wanting to buy a home in the heart of London. But these properties have a premium on them and might be expensive. Notwithstanding, such unaffordability the latest report in the Telegraph envisages an increase of almost 25% in the next 5 years in Chelsea and Kensington townhouse prices.

For somebody wanting a small and affordable corner which could double up as a vacation pad when in town, and also an area which is clearly upcoming  and holds future promise, (along with the fact that it is in the coveted Zone 1) is Earls Court (SW5). It has great connectivity with two tube stations - Earls Court (District and Piccadilly lines) and West Brompton (District line) serving it.  There maybe more affordable options in other Zones but Central London would seem to be an attractive proposition if we were to merely look at it from the fact that prices are mostly bound to rise here (or at best remain stagnant even in  economic downturns) because of the burgeoning demand for property in this area, which is soon likely to face a supply cul-de-sac. This also would mean easy liquidity for somebody wanting to offload their property. 

However, it is important that before one looks at buying a house abroad a fair amount of diligence is undertaken. Best to spend a little to avail the services of a reputed estate agent who can apprise one of the merits and perils of different locations. A legal counsel would be handy in appraising the title of your property. Also, one would need to bake in the other expenses involved in the transaction which could pad up the final cost. It would be prudent to look into the tax implications involved, the inheritance laws of the country, the maintenance cost of such a property, the stamp duty laws etc. - a well worked out buy will save you a lot of unpleasant surprises and heartburn in the future. This having said, there is a lot to say for owning property in London (Central London, if you will), provided of course you can afford it ... for London shall for many more decades continue to remain one of the favorite destination for the cosmopolitan man (and woman)  and unarguably rank as one of the most lovable places on Earth.