Fruit in a jar - guava jelly

The market is flooded with oranges, kinnow (mandarin oranges) and guavas, both winter fruits. Guavas are available in the monsoon season too, but they are sweeter at this time of the year.

Allahabad, a town in UP is known for its guavas. The ones from there are often pinkish in color and are touted as being as sweet as mishri (sugar candy).

The slightly harder ones are a favorite with us and with some kala namak (black salt) sprinkled on them they are great fun to eat. I had some guavas at home which had become too soft to be eaten so a good option was making guava jelly. I am not a big fan of jellies as unlike jams the whole fruit does not end up being used,  though jellies with their pellucidity do look incredible and the flavor of the fruit does come through beautifully.

So here's my guava jelly recipe and it’s turned out wonderful! There is a strong taste of guavas and the dark rusty hue of the jelly is very appealing. It tasted fabulous drizzled over breakfast pancakes. All in all, it was great making it and the end product surpassed my expectations.

Guava jelly

2 kg guavas (ripe)

Sugar- 3/4 cup per cup of guava juice

Juice of 2 lemons

Wash and cut the fruit into small pieces. Place in a large pan with enough water so that the guavas are well covered. Bring to a boil then let it simmer, covered for about 30 minutes or until the guavas are tender.

To get a clear liquid, do not mash the guava pulp. Strain the juice through a muslin cloth or a jelly bag and leave it to drip overnight.

Measure the juice obtained, which would be around 7-8 cups and add it to a pot. Add the sugar and stir it till the sugar dissolves. Boil rapidly and skim off the scum from the top. It would take around 20 minutes to reach the setting point. Test for setting and then fill into sterilized jars and seal. 

Trials and tribulations of a jam maker

"The Quangle Wangle said
To himself on the Crumpetty Tree,--
'Jam; and Jelly; and bread;
Are the best of food for me!"
- Edward Lear

How did I ever get into making jam? To begin with, I really had no clue of what I wanted to do, though I was certain, it had to be food related because cooking was one of my passions.

One day I had this Eureka moment, why not preserves? This thought was also fuelled by the abysmal quality of preserves that were available in the market. There was something missing in them- they were cloyingly sweet and the taste of real fruit just wasn't there. 

Also processed food has never found favor with me so the thought of making a preservative and pectin free jam, seemed just so right.

That was also the time when I read about the artisanal food movement sweeping across America and the idea of producing something handmade and in small quantities appealed a great deal.The mass produced edibles can never match up to a small batch, handcrafted product which oozes flavor and freshness.

But I knew next to nothing about jam making. My previous foray had been eons back when I was living in Melbourne. The Chinese oranges (kumquats) growing in the backyard had tempted me into making marmalade.

What I remember of that experience was that apart from me, the only other person who took to it was my husband's friend ... and now at hindsight I cannot help think that maybe he was just being polite.

 Anyways, I was quite set that this was what I wanted to try my hand at.

One of the first jams I made was with oranges. I followed the recipe to the T. The marmalade was boiling along nicely and then ... I made the cardinal mistake, of attending a call and not keeping a watchful eye on the jam.

That minute or two of distraction made all the difference. The marmalade had taken a lovely caramelized color and looked great, tasted also yum ... only one glitch!  It had reached the hard ball stage and needed some warming up to make it spreadable. My sister came over to taste my first fruits of labor - the orange marmalade and tomato chutney that I had freshly made. Very forthrightly she told me as only sisters' can, that maybe I should forget about making fancy stuff like jam and stick to the more desi familiar chutneys. The kids cheekily suggested that the labels on the jar could have instructions like please microwave before use. 

There was a fleeting thought that maybe it was not my cup of tea, but I wasn't going to give it up tamely.

My next attempt was at making lemon marmalade. But what the heck? What were these Meyer lemon that all the jam makers spoke about in reverential terms? Apparently these are popular in the culinary world for making lemon marmalade as they are known for their juicy pulp and exotic aroma.

I don't get them where I live so instead of fretting on it I settled for the normal ones. The marmalade looked lovely with specks of the rind floating in it. I could not wait for it to set, to taste it. Slathered on the toast it glistened and I swelled with pride at my handiwork. One bite into it, yum! and then it hit - the marmalade had great looks and texture, had  a perfect set but well its one and only flaw... it was amazingly bitter.

The marmalades were proving to be my bane; I needed a break from them. After taking a short hiatus to recover my lost confidence I again plunged into other jams - mango, which thankfully turned out fine. Then the stone fruits – peach, plum and other summer bounty. That's not to say that all of them turned out perfect there were always slight hiccups on the way, the plum tasted sour, the peach (being low in pectin) didn't set too well.

But all these were minor aberrations and as I kept on making, my confidence grew and from tentative and unsure beginnings, to the point where I now thoroughly enjoy the whole process. The gleaming jars give me a sense of accomplishment - all my naysayers have turned around and simply luv the stuff that I now churn out. However when I tell people that I make preserves they look very lost, so then I have to explain in plain terms that it's actually jam, as in 'Kissan' jam.

Lots of learning, but foremost was not to multi task, to keep the focus on the jam when its cooking. Then a lot depends on the produce and each batch will have slight variations in taste. Judging a jam's set is always guesswork in the beginning. It’s mostly after a couple of tries that guesstimate starts giving way to more surety of its doneness.

My tribulations in making the jams have come to an end ... however, a new one has emerged ... people think of jams as a sure recipe for becoming diabetic ... yes, provided you have the typical market processed stuff, otherwise they are no worse than your ice creams and gulab jamuns! 

  

Tangy and Spicy Pickle to tickle your tastebuds

We are nearing Christmas, and we Delhiites are waking up to fog laden mornings and chilly temperatures (my son though is quite amused when I complain about the weather, as the temperature in Ithaca the place he is in, goes down to minus ten) but for us in the sub-continent used to a tropical climate, the dull grey days can be quite a killjoy.

The cold though  hasn't  dampened our appetites, on the contrary one feels more ravenous and it’s great fun gorging on  seasonal  specialties - stuffed paranthas of methi (fresh fenugreek leaves), cauliflower, and of course potatoes which are accompanied by a side of fresh butter and a delectable, mixed vegetable pickle, that is made during this time of the year.

A very popular pickle in North India, the Punjabi mixed vegetable pickle sure elevates even the most boring meals.

Fresh and firm winter vegetables are used to make this pickle. It goes splendidly with paranthas, plain or stuffed, dal-chawal, well virtually with almost everything!

This pickle has an assortment of vegetables which are blanched for a few minutes so that they retain their crunch. The pickle keeps well and one gets to enjoy the winter veggies all through the year.

 Pickling at home might seem like a chore but one should go for it not only for getting the feel of the original taste but also for the fact that it is preservative free.

This was one of the things the daughter too enjoys. I was waiting for her to pass the verdict. So when she said that it tasted just the way she remembered it, I sure felt that I had passed the litmus test.

Mixed Vegetable Pickle (Khatta Meetha Achar)

11/2 kg cauliflower (gobhi) cut into big florets

1/2 kg turnip (shalgam) cut into thick round slice

1/2 kg carrots (gajar) cut into 5 cm long pieces

1 liter mustard oil

125 gm ginger ground to a paste

125gm garlic ground to a paste

750 ml white vinegar

350 gm jaggery (gur)

125 gm garam masala

50 gm red chilli powder

125 gm mustard (rai) powder

150 gm sea salt

Immerse the vegetables in boiling water for just a minute. Drain the water and spread the vegetables on a cloth and leave to dry overnight.

Heat the mustard oil in a wok (kadhai) to smoking point. Let it cool a bit then add the ginger and garlic pastes and fry until well browned.

Gobhi, gajar, shalgam ka achaar

Boil the vinegar and jaggery together in a separate wok until it gets a single thread consistency.

In a large pan mix the vegetables with all the dry spices. Add the jaggery syrup and the fried ginger and garlic pastes. Mix it well and pack in a sterilized jar. Keep in the sun for a fortnight.

This achar (pickle) is so very Indian that it brings back the nostalgia of an era gone by ... it’s easy to make, give it a shot and you will love it not merely for the tangy taste but the memories it would evoke !!!

Two months ago: Spicy Indian green chilli pickle

Bangalore - old world charm or an urban sprawl ?

I had always been keen to visit Bengaluru although I had been forewarned not to expect much. But I did not think much of these naysayers and brushed it all aside ...  thinking that it was typically a guy thing to be oblivious of your surroundings (as they tend to find all cities the same) ... guess these corporate slaves see little more than just their office, airport and the hotel.

Street Art

My first impression- a modern and well tended for city. The well maintained foliage and wide roads near the airport all give it the appearance of a cared for city. On the way to the city I got busy capturing some vivid street art depicting local history and religion.

As a first timer to this place I was curious to see how this place stacked up vis a vis other metros. What is conspicuous about this place is its greenery, and thus aptly known as the garden city. The tree lined wide boulevards of Delhi might be missing but it boasts of a fair number of parks and gardens.

The eighteenth century Lalbagh, a horticultural garden and a spot synonymous with Bengaluru is a must do. It’s a green sprawl and involves a fair bit of walking, so do wear comfortable shoes because it’s really spread out but truly worth the visit. The garden is host to many tropical and subtropical plants many of which are rare species.

Cubbon Park

Another oasis in the middle of the city is the 300 acres nineteenth century Cubbon Park, it's a great retreat for the weary city folks, with its innumerable trees, natural outcroppings of rocks and some of the trees seem fairly old, as their girth is amazing.

This place is a big draw with morning walkers and joggers. Very clearly; these two parks are to Bangaloreans what Central Park is to New Yorkers.

Bull Temple

South Indians are deeply religious people and the city is dotted with ancient temples. We visited the Bull temple in Basavanagudi. The temple is dedicated to Nandi, the mount of Shiva. The bull idol is huge and fills up the entire temple; it's an awesome piece of sculpture built by Kempe Gowda in the Dravidian style. It has been carved out of a monolithic rock and is one of the most ancient  murtis of Nandi, definitely not to be missed sight. In the month of November- December a groundnut fair is held here and the newly harvested groundnuts are offered to Nandi.

Art Of Living Centre

My husband was very keen to visit Sri Sri Ravi Shankar’s Ashram which was an hour away from the city. The Ashram is spread out in hectares of land and the day we had gone there was ashtami pujan and was filled with devotees from far. Well I would suggest that it is worth a visit if and only if you are into such modern age pseudo spiritualism ... no offence intended but I personally prefer in the face religious and spiritual feel of our good old temples.

Tipu Sultan's Palace

Tipu Sultan's summer palace is within the city precincts and features as one of the sightseeing options.This two storied structure built in 1791 is made mostly of wood. This building is now past its prime and looks quite forlorn. For such a rundown, derelict palace the entry ticket was rather on the steep side and I guess that explained why the tourists to be seen out here were a handful of NRI’s.

I had heard a lot about Bangalore's salubrious climate ... some folks going to the extent of saying that the summers are also pleasant. The October sun was scorching and there was no balmy breeze blowing, it was killing to step out in the day time and we were left wondering from which angle could this city possibly lay claim to having an ideal climate ... though to be fair this could well be a fallout of the high levels of pollution the city has seen in recent times. Some of the Old timers we met also cribbed about how Bengaluru is no longer pleasant all year round and is quite warm till the rains arrive in late October.

Mahatma Gandhi Road or MG Road and Brigade Road are a shopper’s haven, where you will find all the hip trendy stores.  If you are a highbrow then head to Higginbotham’s, this 166 years old book house is legendary-an institution in itself  and one of Bangalore's landmark for book lovers. Looking for bargains ... then Commercial Street is the right spot ... a shopping place quite akin to Delhi's Janpath or Sarojini Nagar or Mumbai's Linking Road, patronised by college students looking for something which is easy on the pocket.

This is the city which initiated the pub culture and it doesn't seem to have faded if one was to go by the number of pubs peppering this place... Peco's is an iconic pub and one of the oldest surviving ones, popular with the youngsters as a place to hang out in the evenings.

My sense of this place was very mixed up ... in parts it is very cosmopolitan, great buildings, swish stores, lots of greenery but all that is confined to the central area. Once you move away from the posh Central Residency area you realize how haphazardly the city has grown.

Eons ago Bangalore was one of the cities favored as a retirement destination but now calling it a Pensioners paradise would perhaps be a misnomer, its halcyon days are long over and the city seems to be now taken over by the software boom which has resulted in chaotic construction of multi-storied buildings all over Bengaluru and even its suburbs. The city has grown in an unplanned manner and there is little infrastructure to support it.

It is no longer a dream city and is virtually splitting at the seams. The town planners do need to get their act together and clean up the mess. The construction of Metro has been delayed ... and it would take a couple of decades before public transportation eases the traffic snarls that you regularly witness ... traffic is horrid virtually all throughout the day and not just in the morning and evening office hours.

The positives that I took about this place were its people who are very friendly and helpful. It is essentially a simple society. The city is a unique blend of cosmopolitan and traditional culture which exists side by side. Most people know English so language is not an issue here, even the chappie who was chauffeuring us around would pip in, in our conversations about the city.

All in all ... though I was not particularly fascinated by Bengaluru, but it still has some charm ... needs to invest in building its public infrastructure ... that alone could ensure it retains and builds on its cosmopolitan allure.

One month ago: Tea and Coffee Country - Coonoor
Two months ago: A getaway to the Blue Mountains

Delhi Elections - promise of a better polity?

The recent Delhi Elections have been on everybody's mind and the political outcome is anybody’s guess? Today I have a guest post on this from my hubby Atul, who has passionately been following these elections

The Delhi Elections represent a watershed in the history of the young Indian polity. In no short measure, its outcome represents whether we Indians really care or are pretty much agnostic to how we are governed? Are we nothing but a herd of cows that care little who shepherds us and how? Delhi, which  arguably has an informed electorate,  the distinction of having the largest per capita income and one of the highest  literacy standards cannot but be the first to answer the above questions? Our choice (read vote) today shall equally reflect on us as a society – whether we want to see a decisive change by demanding clean and transparent governance or are we content with the existing political skullduggery?

Ideologically, the existing politics and politicians, of whatever hue – be it Congress or BJP or of regional parties have nothing new to offer– more often than not they all seem to be a bunch of self-seeking individuals having little to show for integrity and honesty.

We have seen it all – 66 years of independence has only worsened the political value system – with politicians largely thinking of politics as a business proposition. It’s not for nothing that Samuel Johnson likened the patriotism of the politician as being the last refuge of the scoundrel!

Corruption in this existing political firmament is pervasive and has eaten into the progress that this country could have made given its vast physical and intellectual capital. Most parts of the country remain underdeveloped with poor or non-existent health, education and infrastructure.

The emergence of the one year old Aam Aadmi Party (AAP) has resulted in not merely heckling the existing political class but more importantly in capturing the imagination of the nation. It has made us think of corruption as a dangerous and grave disease which is eating into the nation’s ability to rapidly develop and progress.The Lokpal bill agitation of Hazare and Kejriwal struck in public conscience the issue of corruption and made people think that the Vadras and Gadkaris (if guilty) should not be permitted to go scot free.

Pilfering of public money needs to be punished and corruption in governance structures needs to be dealt with mercilessly.The emergence of AAP as a potent third force in Indian politics is of tremendous significance, for bringing the issue of political integrity and corruption to the center stage, and for ensuring that value system based on bedrock of honesty and integrity in public life becomes a non-negotiable principle of political governance. AAP‘s existence at least holds the promise of a cleaner polity in the near future.

If AAP does not in the 2014 national elections emerge as a formidable political voice – we Indians would have lost this opportunity and pushed back the path of development of this nation several decades back. The existing political class which has monopolized power since independence represents essentially a decadent political value system. They need to be shaken out of their colossal tolerance for corruption… Delhi elections are a litmus test not merely for AAP but more so for WE Indians – do we care to shun corruption in public life or are we happy to live with ‘chalta hai’?

Besan Kadhi - the perfect winter cheer

"Winter is the time for comfort,
for good food and warmth,
for the touch of a friendly hand,
and for a talk beside the fire:
It is the time for home."
- Edith Sitwell

It's been a cold day here in Delhi and what I was yearning for was some comfort food. I mentally ticked off the list of things I could have, and finally settled on kadhi an all time favorite and a food which was sure to make me happy.

Kadhi chawal has always been a yummy combination and with fried potatoes it tastes absolutely swell.

creamy buttermilk

Buttermilk (chach) is mostly used for making kadhi because the smoothness and creaminess comes from that. Curd will also do but it tastes best with freshly churned buttermilk made from full cream milk.

kadhi pakori

Every house has its own unique way of making this dish. My friend makes Punjabi style kadhi and likes pyaaz ki pakodi in her kadhi. Its consistency can also vary; Gujarati kadhi is thin and also sweetish. Sindhi kadhi has loads of vegetables in it and tamarind pulp is added for  sourness. But whatever way you like it sweet or sour, it always tastes good, is very simple to make and can be had any time of the year.

 Do take the time out to make this dish, I am sure you will enjoy this recipe as much as I do.

Kadhi

Serves 2

For the kadhi

besan kadhi

500 ml (1/2 liter) buttermilk
4 tablespoon besan (chick pea flour/ gram flour)

1/4 teaspoon jeera (cumin seeds)

1/4 teaspoon methi (fenugreek seeds)

1/4 teaspoon hing (asafoetida powder)

1/4 teaspoon haldi (turmeric powder)

a few sprigs of fresh kadi patta (curry leaves)

1 tablespoon ghee (clarified butter)

500 ml (1/2 liter) water

Salt to taste

For the Pakoris

4 tablespoon besan (chickpea flour / gram flour)

70-75 ml water (approx)

Salt to taste

1 cup oil for frying

For the tempering

4 tablespoon desi ghee (clarified butter)

1/2 teaspoon red chilli powder

To make the pakoris

Take besan (chickpea flour) in a bowl, add salt and then slowly add the water till you get a smooth batter of dropping consistency. Lightly beat the mixture (best to do it with hand) for 5 minutes till it is light and fluffy.

Heat the oil in a kadhai (wok). Once the oil is heated up lower the flame to medium and then drop spoonfuls of the besan batter into it. Deep fry the pakodis till they are golden brown and then remove from oil and keep aside.

For the kadhi

Add besan (chickpea flour), haldi (turmeric powder) and the water to the buttermilk. Mix it all well and then strain the mixture to remove any lumps.

Take another kadhai (wok) and add desi ghee (clarified butter), then add the cumin seeds, fenugreek seeds and asafoetida. Stir them for a couple of minutes till they get roasted then add the curry leaves. Now pour in the strained buttermilk- besan (gramflour) mixture, add the salt and stir it well.

Let this mixture cook on high heat till it comes to a boil. Do keep stirring the mixture from time to time or it may split. Once it comes to a boil lower the flame and add the pakoris to it. Mix everything well and then partially cover with a lid. Let it cook on a low flame, stirring it in between. Cook on a simmer till the mixture becomes thickish, will take around 30-45 minutes, and then turn off the burner.

For the tempering

Heat up the desi ghee (clarified butter) and then add the red chilli powder to it. Stir it and then remove from heat so the chilli powder doesn't get burnt.

 Garnish the hot kadhi with this tempering and serve with roti (whole wheat flat bread) and boiled rice.

Note: 

1.   In case you like the kadhi to be slightly sour the buttermilk should be kept out of the refrigerator till it takes on the sourness that suits you.

2.   For melt in the mouth pakoris the trick is to lightly beat the chickpea batter. The beating makes the batter light and results in soft pakoris.

3.  The consistency of the batter should be such that when you drop spoonfuls of batter in the hot oil it holds its shape.

Two months ago: Traditional festive food ... UP style

Five months ago: Musings about Desi khana

Shudh Desi affair in Chandni Chowk

I had been away from Delhi for the better part of the month and after the heat and humidity of Singapore, Delhi's cold was very welcoming. The weather is just perfect for being outdoors- it’s nice and sunny-great time for going around and exploring the city. 

The temperature has dipped but not our proclivity for food. The cold is making us more ravenous and the day starts with stuffed paranthas (flatbread) with loads of butter, wheat flour has given way to corn and pearl millet, for something sweet its gur (jaggery) based goodies like gajak, rewari and for snacking there are always moongphali (peanuts) and dry fruits. But of course in this gluttony my dieting plans go for a toss. I studiously avoid going anywhere near the weighing scale and try to assuage my guilt by promising to do additional rounds of the park.

On a nice sunny day I made a trip to Khari Baoli (Asia's biggest spice market) in Chandni Chowk for stocking up on the mewa (dry fruits).

Now Chandni Chowk is definitely not a place for the faint hearted ... you do need to steel yourself for a day out here - maneuvering your way through the sea of humanity.The first sense that hits you is omg!! So many people! It’s virtually like a mela (fair) with waves and waves of people all around you and the hawkers standing at every nook and corner selling their wares. Walking though its main street is an exercise in alacrity and deftness ... you should be able to side step people and walk through the huge rush without banging into the hordes thronging this age old bazaar.

 It’s a different world out here and you realize that this is the real India from which we urban elite tend to isolate ourselves by keeping our interactions to the minimum ... but all the same it is this India which is in our psyche and is still very much a part of us. Going to Chandni Chowk makes us realize at once why despite of so much of globalization ... so much of Gucci, Ferragamos and Versace and Porsche showrooms ... most, rather majority of India is still zillions of eons away from western style development and modernity. 

Coming back to the subject! Chandni Chowk is a true foodie haven; the minute you step in there is virtually some scrumptious stuff at each corner and lane. The Natraj dahibhalla (lentil based snack) and tikki (potato patty) guy at the corner is hugely popular, opposite him is the famous Jalebiwala whose desi ghee (clarified butter) soaked offerings are legendary.

But none of the chaats and kachoris (snacks) tempted me, as this time around, I was seeking out a much commended shudh desi (pure Indian) vegetarian bhojanalaya (restaurant).

What spurred me was the high praise this lunchroom received from  Rahul Verma and Pamela Timms. Both acclaimed food writers and connoisseurs of Old Delhi food.

My lunch destination was Adarsh Bhojanalaya at Haveli Haider Quli. It is a very honest-to-goodness joint.

The place was fairly crowded, always a promising sign. There were a couple of young lads serving everyone and within no time they served us a piping hot meal in thalis, a true Marwari hallmark. On the menu was raita, daal, kidney beans and seasonal vegetable with some salad, chutney and papad on the side and gulab jamun (Indian sweet). The food is a lot like your everyday home cooked fare sans onion and garlic. They serve this with different varieties of freshly made breads- ghee laden plain roti, missi roti, stuffed paranthas (paneer/aloo) and rice. For a couple of dollars it’s a fabulously sumptuous meal - simple, wholesome food served with lots of heart and satkaar (hospitality).

Of course I pigged out so much so that I couldn't eat the whole day ... so carry along some digestives if you happen to come here! I am sure you too will fall for this all forgotten simple but one helluva tasty vegetarian fare.

Three months ago: South Indian fare in and around Lutyen's Delhi

Dark indulgence - Whole Wheat Chocolate Cupcakes

I enjoy baking, there is something deeply satisfying about home baked cakes and their aroma wafting from the kitchen which fills up the house. Winter has set in, in Delhi and all our woollies and blankets are out ...  on a cold wintry evening nothing could be more welcoming than enjoying a cup of  fine Darjeeling tea with  a slice of cake fresh and warm from the oven.

Chocolate cake is a big favorite with everyone but then, let's be honest ... there is some guilt attached to gorging on such indulgence. To ostensibly alleviate that guilt, I veered towards making whole wheat chocolate cupcakes. The wheat flour gives a darker and denser texture and a nice nutty flavor.

Whole wheat flour is made of ground whole grain wheat kernels. It is by far a healthier option in baking and by no means less tasty as the switch from refined to wheat flour does not compromise the flavor. Initially, if one wishes one could use a 50/50 blend of both whole wheat and refined flour in the cake batter and then gradually switch over to total whole wheat. Baking times may vary when using whole grain flour so do the toothpick test to check when the cake is done.

I am all for simple tea cakes, but I couldn't resist glamming up these cupcakes. Though it marginally adds to the calorie count, the icing sure adds a lot of oomph to the simple chocolate cupcake. The cupcakes have a subtle chocolate flavor and a moist texture that is topped with a rich and creamy chocolate butter icing.

Whole Wheat Chocolate Cupcakes

Makes 10- 12 cup cakes

 chocolate cupcakes

3/4 cup whole wheat flour
1/4 cup cocoa powder

3/4 cup sugar

1/4 cup oil

11/2 teaspoon baking powder

2 eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla essence

3/4 cup warm water

Preheat oven to 180 degrees C. Grease a 12 cup muffin pan or line with paper baking cups.

Stir in the cocoa powder in the hot water (this brings out its full flavor) and mix well till smooth. Let it cool down to room temperature.

In a medium bowl, sift the whole wheat flour and the baking powder together. In a separate bowl mix in the sugar, oil, eggs and the vanilla essence.

Add the wet ingredients to the dry ones and fold in. Lastly, add the cooled cocoa water a little at a time (the batter should be of dropping consistency and not runny) till the cake batter gets well mixed .

Spoon the batter into the prepared cups dividing evenly till they are about 3/4ths filled. Level the batter with the back of a spoon and bake for 20-25 minutes or till a skewer inserted inside comes out clean.

Let the cupcakes rest in the tin for 5 minutes and then place them on a wire rack to cool

Butter Cream Frosting

4 tablespoon (1/2 stick) unsalted butter

1/4 cup cocoa powder

2 cup confectioners’ sugar / icing sugar

4 tablespoons milk

1 teaspoon vanilla essence

1. Place the butter in a bowl and  beat well till it gets smooth and creamy

2. Add in the cocoa and sugar and beat them in well till fluffy

3. Mix in the milk, a little at a time, stirring it well after each addition and then add the vanilla extract and beat till frosting is smooth and glossy.

4. Spread the icing on each cooled cupcake with a small spatula and let it rest for 1/2 an hour till it sets properly.

Note: Powdered sugar can also be used for icing but sift it well with a fine sieve.

Two months ago: Celebrating summer with a pear spice cake

Three months ago: Whole wheat mango cake-sans guilt

Four months ago: Pear and Cinnamon Upside Down Cake

Tea and Coffee Country - Coonoor

Holidays leave some lovely memories-replete with the sights and sounds of places one visited, of the impulsive things one did, of the local food one tried - soaking in the sense and feel of the place. But the ones which you remember most are the places where there was ease and you had a comfortable stay. Recently when I travelled down South to the tea country- Coonoor, I was looking for something that had an old world charm and was reminiscent of the colonial past. Wallwood Garden, a 19th century heritage hotel of Neemrana Group fitted the bill beautifully. It was a tea planter's bungalow which is now run as a boutique hotel (or a Non-Hotel as the group likes to call it) and is an ideal choice for experiencing the Nilgiris.

The property is located in the picturesque and peaceful environs of Upper Coonoor, a mere 5 minutes from the town's most visited spot, the Sim's Park. The bungalow is a relic of the British days and is truly vintage material with a fireplace too- the perfect thing on a cold wintry day.

The cottage is sweetly maintained and makes for a relaxed stay. The rooms are aesthetically done up in their trademark style of  Rajasthani furnishings complete with a four poster bed and Victorian two seaters, very charming and comfortable, just the place to snuggle up with a book and relax. The lawns are well kept (and have won some prizes too), the perfect place to enjoy your morning cuppa and savor some fresh mountain air. The dining room was a delight with its French windows which offered a lovely view of the greens outside. The wooden flooring in the lounge adds to the warmth of the place. It is away from the town's hustle and bustle and though located on the Kotagiri road, it has been able to maintain its serenity. Their food is very basic and nothing much to write about but since there were plenty of good eating options nearby it was no sweat.

Like any hill station, confectionary shops are plentiful here and we would invariably stroll down to Bedford market which was close by to try out the huge variety of cakes and cookies- Swiss rolls, chocolate cake, ginger biscuits and great tasting cookies. Baker's Junction, in this area, was another interesting shop, stacked with all possible eats- a real treasure trove for foodies. Craving a Chinese meal, there is the Dragon Chinese Restaurant near the market square which dishes out quite an edible fare for a small town. There is also the ubiquitous CCD (Cafe Coffee Day) - in the Bedford area which was surprisingly not drawing in crowds. I guess people here still prefer their good old filter coffee over any fancy stuff. I was missing my North Indian food by now so Quality Restaurant was our savior; they do a good lunch buffet which is very sumptuous. For South Indian food there are options aplenty (there is Shri Lakshmi in Lower Coonoor) and they all do a good job.

What stood out about Coonoor vis-a-vis other places up North was that it is relatively cleaner, people have a lot more civic sense and don't litter the streets. In the Nilgiris there is a ban on the use of plastics which is adhered to very religiously. Our eats would be very nicely wrapped in brown paper packets and it was good to see even the small shop keepers following the practice unlike up here in the North where such restrictions are openly flouted. The aam aadmi (common man) is far more conscientious about his work and seldom would you find people whiling away their time. Walking around, as a North Indian you do get curious but affable looks, this pleasantness is something which is clearly absent in Delhi city. 

 As a Delhiite I might have a lot of cribs about my city,  but my trip to the South has been quite an eye opener too, to the extent that it made me realize, that all told Delhi is still by far the best, and one of the most livable places in the country.

Traditional festive food ... UP style

"What is patriotism but the love of the food one ate as a child?"

- Lin Yutang

The festival of lights- Diwali, is an occasion that one looks forward to each year. This festival for me has a lot of nostalgia attached to it - of times spent with my parents and sisters. On Diwali day my parents would religiously visit the temple in the morning, and if they could, would try to get us to accompany them. For Jains, Diwali is a special day, as on this day, Lord Mahavir, the last of the Jain Tirthankara, attained  moksha (salvation). Jain ceremonies are more towards simplicity and there is less of pomp and over the top celebrations.

Festive occasions in India, apart from their religious significance have one major theme - food. My father was from western UP-  a prosperous area synonymous with good food and he sure was fastidious about his food.Though my mother was a total novice in cooking at the time of her marriage but she gradually honed her cooking skills once she realised that my father enjoyed good food.

On  Diwali, my mom used to make pithi ki kachori (a fried bread  made from wheat flour which has spicy lentil paste stuffed in the dough). Kachori was something that we all enjoyed and it was not just made on festive occassions-we only needed an excuse to have it.(I guess it's got to do with my genes - apparently my grandfather used to have kachoris for both his meals). There were lots of different vegetables made with the kachoris and along with that were some side accompaniments like methi ki launji and kaddu ki sabzi (sweet and sour pumpkin curry).This vegetable was one of my mom's favorite and she could have her entire meal with just this.This vegetable is also known as petha / kashiphal / sitaphal (pumpkin).

Though I don't do such elaborate cooking as my mom, but on Diwali day kachori is a must and so is the khatti meethi 'kaddu ki sabzi'. The pumpkin curry has some sugar added to it for sweetness but the sugar is optional and can be omitted. It is a nice tangy and spicy vegetable, but feel free to experiment as the masalas(spices) should always be to your personal taste. Most of my everyday cooking  is andaaz se (intuitively)- nothing is measured out because mostly things will turn out fine as long as you give it your undivided attention.

Sweet and Sour Pumpkin/ Kaddu ki sabji

SERVES 4

150 gm pumpkin (kaddu)

4-5 fresh green chillies

4 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 teaspoon fenugreek seed (methi dana)

1 teaspoon cumin seed (jeera)

large pinch of asafoetida (hing)

1 tablespoon sliced ginger

1 tablespoon sugar (or to taste)

1 tablespoon coriander powder (dhania )

1 teaspoon garam masala

1 teaspoon red chilli powder (lal mirch)

1/2 teaspoon turmeric powder (haldi)

1 tablespoon tamarind pulp diluted in water(4 tablespoon)

chopped coriander

Salt to taste

Cut the pumpkin into 4 cm cubes. Slice the pumpkin peel into slivers (optional). Slit the green chillies into two.

Heat oil, then add the fenugreek seeds, cumin seeds and asafoetida. When the seeds splutter, add the slivered ginger and fry for about one minute. Stir in the pumpkin cubes, peels and the green chillies and continue stir frying for 5 minutes until the pumpkin looks glossy.

Stir in the sugar, salt, coriander powder, garam masala, chiili powder and turmeric powder and mix well. Cover the pan, lower the heat and cook it on a simmer, stirring the vegetable a couple of times in between  for 20-30 minutes until the kaddu is tender.Take care not to mash the vegetable while stirring.

Stir in tamarind juice, mix well and cook for 2-3 minutes longer. Serve garnished with chopped green coriander. 

I love this kaddu ki sabzi and can simply to feast on it  with poori, kachori or even just roti. (traditional Indian breads) ... try and my guess is you too would love it